I've always wanted to go on a semi-serious solo backpacking trip. The John Muir Trail, say, or the Sierra High Route. Or just one of the more popular portals into the Sierra: Desolation, Hoover, Emigrant, or John Muir Wilderness, say. I nice loop hike to a lake or two or three; thirty, thirty-five miles; five, six, seven days in all. Sounds wonderful!
Despite these dreams, the only solo backpack I've ever done was a three-day trip into the Grand Canyon, over Easter weekend 2007.
When I started out early in the morning, it was snowing on the South Rim, but once I'd descended maybe a quarter mile, it started to warm up nicely. Off came my sweater and jacket. By the time I got down to the river, it was in the high 70s. Perfect!
My route was the South Kaibab Trail, to Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground on the Colorado. I had two nights and one full day down at the bottom.
My first night, there was a whopping good thunderstorm! Very exciting, especially since I was using my new MSR three-season tent for the first time. The tent is very airy—lots of netting. But the rain fly worked well, and I stayed toasty dry and warm, reveling in the crashing booms and the rushing downpour.
The next morning dawned dry, and I had the whole day before me. I used it to hike the North Kaibab Trail to Ribbon Falls, five and
a half miles on relatively flat terrain. It's a wonderful wet oasis in
that otherwise sere landscape. On the walk back I had the company of Tony from Minnesota, who had been abandoned by his son. We had a great chat, and have kept in touch since.
The hike out was via the Bright Angel Trail, which I'd heard was really hard, but I guess I'm a good plodder, and I just kept plodding along until, poof, I popped out back on the South Rim.
On the march up, curiously, I developed a strong
hankering for McDonald's french fries. Now, I never, ever eat at McDonald's, so just where that craving came from I can't tell you. But when I hopped in the car and headed out of the park, what did I find but . . . a McDonald's! I'm pretty sure I haven't had McDonald's french fries since then. But that particular helping? It was so very satisfying!
Here are some photos from that trip. And now, I think I'm going to put that solo Sierra backpack a little higher on my mental list—for next summer, maybe?
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| South Kaibab Trail |
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| Final descent on South Kaibab to Colorado River |
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| Silver Bridge across the Colorado |
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| Bright Angel Campground (x marks my campsite) |
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| Home sweet home |
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| Late afternoon on the river |
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| Bright Angel Creek |
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| On the way to Ribbon Falls |
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| Ribbon Falls |
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| Looking out from behind the falls |
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| Hydrophile |
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| Ribbon Falls mossy gorgeousness |
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| Looking down Bright Angel Trail as I near the top |
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| The Colorado 5,000 feet below |
3 comments:
I entered the lottery for a backpacking trip in Yosemite--the High Sierra Camps. Not solo. I'll have Eric with me. Not sure if the lottery deadline has expired, but you might enjoy something like that. No need to carry a tent, and they make dinner and breakfast for you.
I did that a number of years ago. It was marvelous! We had the best guide (a ranger who was also an artist); went with David and another couple of good friends. I hope you have as good a time as we did. I'm envious! It's hard to get those spots!
well i would love to any or all - but ...this is all in my head!! ..those very close to me know that i talk about doing things like this all the time - knowing that its the complete opposite of my reality!! .. but .. im with you in spirit!
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