A Trip to Brazil

In 2001, David and I went to southern Africa—a trip of a lifetime: Zimbabwe, for a total solar eclipse; Botswana, for a couple of safaris, including the magical Okavango Delta; and finally some rock-climbing fun in Namibia. In Botswana, we met a couple of Brazilians, Dora and Ricardo, and they said, if you like this, you will love Brazil's Pantanal. After we arrived home, an envelope appeared in our mailbox with a handmade brochure featuring the Pantanal. Dream food.

And so all these years, I've kept that name tucked away in a fold of my brain. Until just this month, when we finally made our way to the world's largest tropical wetland. We flew into Cuiabá, shown on the map, then drove, via Pousada Araras, to Porto Jofre. From there we flew south to a lodge not shown on the map, then drove to another, and finally ended up at Caiman. 

A few facts: the Pantanal comprises some 81,000 square miles, stretching across southwestern Brazil and into Paraguay and Bolivia; up to 80 percent of the land is submerged during the wet season, November–March. It has exceptional wildlife diversity: plant species, ~3,500; birds, 656; fish, 325; mammals, 159; reptiles 98; amphibians, 53. And it has some 10 million Yacaré caimans, the highest concentration of reptilians globally. (I especially loved seeing the caimans hauled out on land sporting fresh bonnets of water hyacinth.)

As I try to do, I posted daily on Facebook with some photos and descriptions of what we were seeing. It accounts for maybe a quarter of what we were actually experiencing, but it's something. 

So here we go—another day-by-day summary that helps me, at least, remember an astonishing trip.

Leaving home, and a couple of days in São Paulo
Heading out
A walk through Guarulhos
A day in the Parque Ecológico do Tietê

The first half of the tour was in Mato Grosso do Norte: Araras Lodge and Porto Jofre, on the Cuiabá River
Arrival in the Pantanal
A boardwalk walk, day 2
First safari drive (of many), still day 2
Another boardwalk walk, then a drive to Porto Jofre, day 3
River trip, part 1, day 4
Day 5: I took the morning off from wildlife spotting, and nosed around the hotel property, saw plenty
And then I rejoined the group
Day 6: on the river
a couple of videos of a swimming jaguar
Day 7: another morning off, and then another boat ride
Day 8: a final boat ride, then off to Mato Grosso do Sul

In the south we stayed in three lodges: Aguapé, São Francisco, and Caiman
Day 9: The giant anteater was the real prize today
Day 10: And we move on to our next destination, São Francisco
Day 11: Driving around Fazenda São Francisco
Day 12: Last day in these beautiful flatlands, then a drive to our final stay: Caiman Lodge
Day 13
Day 14: Our last full-day safari drive
Day 15: Transitioning from the Pantanal to reality
Day 16: A morning in the Parque dos das Nacões Indíginas, in Campo Grande