Sunday, August 30, 2026

Alebrijes y Nahuales

We spent the afternoon poking around the nearby city of Salinas, seeking out 20-foot-tall wooden sculptures of magical creatures. It was a traveling exhibition by Mexican artists, which is leaving at the end of the week, so we figured it was today or never. 

Here are the seven we spent some time with (the eighth, an "alien," was in a very crowded soccer venue, it being Sunday, so we just waved at it as we drove out of the full parking lot). I wrote captions on my Facebook post, so visit there if you'd like more information, and more photos, as well as artist bios. 

Armadillo

Rabbit

Lionbull

Catbird

Coyote

Dog (and guide to the underworld)

Cat Nahual


Thursday, August 27, 2026

A Trip to Brazil

In 2001, David and I went to southern Africa—a trip of a lifetime: Zimbabwe, for a total solar eclipse; Botswana, for a couple of safaris, including the magical Okavango Delta; and finally some rock-climbing fun in Namibia. In Botswana, we met a couple of Brazilians, Dora and Ricardo, and they said, if you like this, you will love Brazil's Pantanal. After we arrived home, an envelope appeared in our mailbox with a handmade brochure featuring the Pantanal. Dream food.

And so all these years, I've kept that name tucked away in a fold of my brain. Until just this month, when we finally made our way to the world's largest tropical wetland. We flew into Cuiabá, shown on the map, then drove, via Pousada Araras, to Porto Jofre. From there we flew south to a lodge not shown on the map, then drove to another, and finally ended up at Caiman. 

A few facts: the Pantanal comprises some 81,000 square miles, stretching across southwestern Brazil and into Paraguay and Bolivia; up to 80 percent of the land is submerged during the wet season, November–March. It has exceptional wildlife diversity: plant species, ~3,500; birds, 656; fish, 325; mammals, 159; reptiles 98; amphibians, 53. And it has some 10 million Yacaré caimans, the highest concentration of reptilians globally. (I especially loved seeing the caimans hauled out on land sporting fresh bonnets of water hyacinth.)

As I try to do, I posted daily on Facebook with some photos and descriptions of what we were seeing. It accounts for maybe a quarter of what we were actually experiencing, but it's something. 

So here we go—another day-by-day summary that helps me, at least, remember an astonishing trip.


Leaving home, and a couple of days in São Paulo
Heading out
A walk through Guarulhos
A day in the Parque Ecológico do Tietê

The first half of the tour was in Mato Grosso do Norte: Araras Lodge and Porto Jofre, on the Cuiabá River
Arrival in the Pantanal
A boardwalk walk, day 2
First safari drive (of many), still day 2
Another boardwalk walk, then a drive to Porto Jofre, day 3
River trip, part 1, day 4
Day 5: I took the morning off from wildlife spotting, and nosed around the hotel property, saw plenty
And then I rejoined the group
Day 6: on the river
a couple of videos of a swimming jaguar
Day 7: another morning off, and then another boat ride
Day 8: a final boat ride, then off to Mato Grosso do Sul

In the south we stayed in three lodges: Aguapé, São Francisco, and Caiman
Day 9: The giant anteater was the real prize today
Day 10: And we move on to our next destination, São Francisco
Day 11: Driving around Fazenda São Francisco
Day 12: Last day in these beautiful flatlands, then a drive to our final stay: Caiman Lodge
Day 13
Day 14: Our last full-day safari drive
Day 15: Transitioning from the Pantanal to reality
Day 16: A morning in the Parque dos das Nacões Indíginas, in Campo Grande



Saturday, August 1, 2026

Robert Hass, poet

Today is my husband's and my 45th anniversary. (Yikes! How did that happen?) And for a Wordle-related reason, I needed to find a snatch of a poem. I thought I might base it on the traditional gift for 45, which turns out to be sapphire. And I found this lovely poem, with the "sapphire of the raccoon's eyes." I do love Robert Hass.

Iowa City: Early April

This morning a cat—bright orange—pawing at the one patch of new grass in the sand-and tanbark-colored leaves.

And last night the sapphire of the raccoon's eyes in the beam of the flashlight.
He was climbing a tree beside the house, trying to get onto the porch, I think, for a wad of oatmeal
Simmered in cider from the bottom of the pan we'd left out for the birds.

And earlier a burnished, somewhat dazed woodchuck, his coat gleaming with spring
Loping toward his burrow in the roots of a tree among the drying winter's litter
Of old leaves on the floor of the woods, when I went out to get the New York Times.

And male cardinals whistling back and forth—sireeep, sreeep, sreeep—
Sets of three sweet full notes, weaving into and out of each other like the triplet rhymes in medieval poetry,
And the higher, purer notes of the tufted titmice among them,
High in the trees where they were catching what they could of the early sun.

And a doe and two yearlings, picking their way along the worrying path they'd made through the gully, their coats the color of the forest floor,
Stopped just at the roots of the great chestnut where the woodchuck's burrow was,
Froze, and the doe looked back over her shoulder at me for a long moment, and leapt forward,
Her young following, and bounded with that almost mincing precision in the landing of each hoof
Up the gully, over it, and out of sight. So that I remembered
Dreaming last night that a deer walked into the house while I was writing at the kitchen table,
Came in the glass door from the garden, looked at me with a stilled defiant terror, like a thing with no choices,
And, neck bobbing in that fragile-seeming, almost mechanical mix of arrest and liquid motion, came to the table
And snatched a slice of apple, and stood, and then quietened, and to my surprise did not leave again.

And those little captains, the chickadees, swift to the feeder and swift away.

And the squirrels with their smoke-plume tails trailing digging in the leaves to bury or find buried—
I'm told they don't remember where they put things, that it's an activity of incessant discovery—
Nuts, tree-fall proteins, whatever they forage from around the house of our leavings,

And the flameheaded woodpecker at the suet with his black-and-white ladderback elegant fierceness—
They take sunflower seeds and stash them in the rough ridges of the tree's bark

Where the beaks of the smoke-and-steel blue nuthatches can't quite get at them—
Though the nuthatches sometimes seem to get them as they con the trees methodically for spiders' eggs or some other overwintering insect's intricately packaged lump of futurity
Got from its body before the cold came on.

And the little bat in the kitchen lightwell—
When I climbed on a chair to remove the sheet of wimpled plastic and let it loose,
It flew straight into my face and I toppled to the floor, chair under me,

And it flared down the hall and did what seemed a frantic reconnoiter of the windowed, high-walled living room.
And lit on a brass firelog where it looked like a brown and ash grey teenaged suede glove with Mephistophelean dreams,
And then, spurt of black sperm, up, out the window, and into the twilight woods.

All this life going on about my life, or living a life about all this life going on,
Being a creature, whatever my drama of the moment, at the edge of the raccoon's world—
He froze in my flashlight beam and looked down, no affect, just looked,
The ringtail curled and flared to make him look bigger and not to be messed with—
I was thinking he couldn't know how charming his comic-book robber's mask was to me,
That his experience of his being and mine of his and his of mine were things entirely apart,
Though there were between us, probably, energies of shrewd and respectful tact, based on curiosity and fear—
I knew about his talons whatever he knew about me—
And as for my experience of myself, it comes and goes, I'm not sure it's any one thing, as my experience of these creatures is not,
And I know I am often too far from it or too near, glad to be rid of it which is why it was such a happiness,
The bright orange of the cat, and the first pool of green grass-leaves in early April, and the birdsong—that orange and that green not colors you'd set next to one another in the human scheme.

And the crows' calls, even before you open your eyes, at sunup.