Noticing l - nasu dengaku

Yesterday was my birthday (yay!), another year older (boo!). I didn't do much to celebrate. Instead, I worked most of the day, trying to meet a deadline and get three jobs out of the house. This morning, I shipped them off. Now I can try to gather myself together and slow down a bit. Maybe tomorrow I'll take the day off in honor of the big day. (It was a big day, too: 65. The good news is, I'm now eligible for medicare. Assuming it sticks around.)

David and I did, however, go out for dinner, by way of a tiny celebration. Nothing special: a sushi place we like, Crystal Fish in New Monterey. As usual, we ordered an appetizer that we love, which they call nasu miso. Every time we get it, I remark that we should find a recipe and make it ourselves. Well, today's the day. Herewith, nasu dengaku, as it appears on the web: miso-glazed eggplant. This recipe is from the New York Times, about which the author, Martha Rose Shulman, comments, "I roast the eggplant first, then brush it with the glaze and run it under the broiler. The trick is getting the timing right so the glaze caramelizes but doesn’t burn."

Nasu Dengaku

Serves 4; total time 45 minutes

• 2 long Japanese eggplants or 4 small Italian eggplants (about 3/4 pound)
• 2 Tb white or yellow miso (awase miso, a mix of red and white, also works)
• 1 Tb mirin
• 1 Tb granulated or brown sugar
• 1 Tb sake
• 1 tsp sesame oil, plus additional for baking sheet
• red pepper flakes (optional)
• sesame seeds (optional)

1. Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and cut off the stem and calyx. Using the tip of a paring knife, cut an incision down the middle of each half, making sure not to cut through the skin, but cutting down to it. Italian eggplants with wider flesh can be cut in a diamond pattern. Salt the eggplant lightly and let sit for 10 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment and brush with sesame oil.
3. Blot the eggplants with paper towels and place, cut side down, on the baking sheets. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, until the skin is beginning to shrivel and the flesh is soft. Remove from the oven and carefully turn the eggplants over.
4. Preheat the broiler.
5. To make the glaze, combine the mirin and sake in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil 20 seconds, taking care not to boil off much of the liquid, then turn the heat to low and stir in the miso and the sugar. Whisk over medium-low heat without letting the mixture boil, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and whisk in the sesame oil.
6. Brush the eggplants with the miso glaze, using it all up. Place under the broiler, about 2 inches from the heat, and broil for about 1 minute, until the glaze begins to bubble and looks shiny.
7. Sprinkle with pepper flakes and sesame seeds, if desired. Serve hot or allow to cool.

Another recipe author (with a slightly different, quicker version—and one that actually looks more like our restaurant's dish, though that could just be a function of more sauce), Carolyn at pickledplum.com, suggests pairing nasu dengaku with kimchi udon stir fry, spaghetti squash yakisoba style, baked chicken katsu, or a bowl of healthy udon noodle soup. Sounds good! Maybe I'll give those a try too, once I've mastered one version or other of nasu dengaku.