Monday, April 19, 2021

Cooking (Mark Bittman)

I have been cooking a lot more during the last year, and enjoying it—because when I do cook, it's because I want to. The last couple of weeks, though, I haven't felt like it. So we've had leftovers; or David has cooked; or we've "scrounged" (different from leftovers: more of an individualistic free-for-all—chips and salsa, good enough!). We've also gone out to eat, now that we're vaccinated. What a luxury! 

But tonight, I was in the mood again. So I got out How to Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman. Which I learned about not too long ago on an Ezra Klein podcast, where Ezra and Mark talked about our modern food system, and what's wrong with it. (So much.) When asked what cookbook Bittman would recommend for vegetarian cooking, well, guess what he recommended? But since he'd recommended books by other authors for other specialties, I thought, hmm, might be worth checking out. I am trying to eat more vegetables, after all. 

And yes: I love Bittman's book. Not simply because he offers a wealth of knowledge and good recipes, but also because he offers variations on those recipes. Each recipe becomes three or five or more. He teaches you how to improvise, in effect. How to think more creatively about food.

Here's what I made tonight:

Cannellini Beans with Cabbage and Pasta

Salt
1/2 head cabbage, preferably Savoy, cored and chopped
8 ounces cavatelli, conchiglie, or orecchiette
2 tablespoons olive oil or butter
1 large or 2 medium leeks, including some green parts, rinsed and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
1 celery stalk, chopped
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)
1 cup vegetable stock
3 cups cooked or canned cannellini beans, drained (can also use pinto or chickpeas)
Pepper
Freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino Romano for garnish (optional)

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the cabbage and cook until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon or a small strainer to fish it out; drain and set aside. When the water returns to a boil, add the pasta and cook until tender but firm, 7 to 8 minutes, then drain.
2. Meanwhile, put the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it's hot, add the leeks and celery and cook until softened, 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the thyme and the wine if you're using it, and cook for another minute, until the pan is almost dry. Add the stock, beans, and reserved cabbage. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until the flavors blend and everything is well heated, about 5 minutes more.
3. Add the drained pasta to the skillet and stir gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese if you're using, and serve.

(The variations involve spinach, chickpeas, and perhaps raisins.)

Anyway, the recipe was so delicious that I went back for seconds—something I rarely do. Maybe I just wanted more cheese. But I don't think so. It really was good. Simple but oh so springtime tasty.

I already have a shopping list to make more vegetable stock (this might become a new Sunday ritual) and a smoky eggplant zucchini soup. Just typing that makes my mouth water.

Here is Mark Bittman giving a TED talk, all the way back in 2008, about what's wrong with how we eat:


I am trying to get better about how I eat.... Home cooking is a good start. So are vegetables.




No comments: